Pat who has been on more of the top end, ridiculous, off trail endeavors than anyone else.
She was really excited too, and in the end she did spectacular. I was glad to be able to provide such an appropriate adventure to someone that cares so much.
Marc Ankenbauer's ten year quest to swim in every lake in Waterton and Glacier National Parks for charity
Good Evening,
Ever since I have started this project there have been lakes or groupings of lakes that people are always intrigued by.
When I tell them about what I’m doing, they get wild eyed and come up with the most remote, ridiculously hard, off trail lakes in the park and ask “Have you done this or that”?
One of the most commented on is a group of lakes near the Canadian border called the Northern Boundary Lakes. There are five of them and the last two fell on Tuesday.
So, I raise my glass to those five, because they have put up a heck of a fight.
On Tuesday, my friends Pat and Brian and I went to Carcajou Lake and Wahseeja Lake.
But, before that we had large plates of Cincinnati Chili.
For anyone who knows about this delicacy, you understand how happy I was to have a communal chili feed in the middle of nowhere.
The next morning with a chili bomb in our stomachs we headed north to the northern boundary trail which is about four miles north of Goat Haunt. We said hello to the obelisk that marks the border and we headed west three and a half miles till we saw an entrance to a heavily wooded side valley that no one I have ever met has gone up. I’m sure its happened, but boy oh boy… would it be few and far between.
We had to cross Boundary Creek which luckily we had a few good logs to work across. Then into the guts we go.
It started off quite nice with some lovely meadow filled stretches.
That always ends and gives way to a thick tree filled mess.
This year has been one of the wettest on record. With rain come mushrooms. They were everywhere.
Huge ones.
Weird ones.
Also, that means that it was just wet. It had not rained in days, but the whole area was just moist.
Great moss.
After many hours working up a steep wooded valley we eventually dropped down to the creek that drains Carcajou Lake. Shortly after crossing it, we finally came to the first of our objectives.
Carcajou Lake.
We frolicked in the lake for a good while to get rid of the pine needles, grit and grime.
It was quite pleasant.
We took a nice little while here; even long enough for Pat to take a cat nap on the lake shore.
But, we had to keep going. There is no stopping and we had a long way to go. We were essentially going from one main valley to the next, but over, under and through the middle of nowhere.
We headed back out with the need to climb over a ridge to the lake on the other side.
It was thick and steep.
And hot! I had to wring out my bandana….Wanna see?
Along the way Brian made a friend.
We eventually just grabbed hand fulls of vegetation and pulled ourselves up a thousand feet of steep mess.
Luckily when we got towards the top, the blessed animals of Glacier National Park started to hook us up a bit. There was a perfect game trail over the top of the ridge that went on for a good while in the exact direction that we were headed.
It was amazing on the other side.
Lots of flower choked meadows.
If nothing else, just easier going since it was much more open. With that came huge views of the surrounding mountains.
In a past endeavor with a friend Matt I looked down on Wahseeja Lake.
I have been waiting for a long time to get back to it.
(I would also like to note that Matt just informed me today his wife Allison is pregnant!! Lets all raise a glass to their lovely, healthy, very tiny baby to be!!! )
Anyway it was very rewarding to get to this absolutely amazing lake. This was easily one of the most lovely that I have been to in all my time in the park.
We enjoyed it to the fullest. Seldom is there a perfect, large rock to jump off of. Well there is in Wahseeja Lake.
As to not carry around a bunch of wet clothes we all went naked.
So, fortunatly you get to just see a picture of me in the lake instead…No jumping pics.
But, like everything else in life, this too had to end.
There was a saddle about 300 feet above the lake that we had to get to and over.
On the other side was our destiny.
A 2000 foot steep grade going straight down towards Lake Francis and Lake Janet.
There was still many miles to go, onward and upward.
Only time for one last group picture of the lake.
Man that thing is nice.
The saddle proved to be big and wide.
It also had huge views of Mount Cleveland which is the highest peak in the park.
This hike just kept getting better.
But, down we went into the abyss. Not too bad, in relative terms. I guess the schwack up the Carcajou side of the trip was so nasty that this seemed quite tame.
2000 feet of extremely steep tame, but tame none the less.
Happily we gained the valley floor and headed our five more miles of trail back towards Goat Haunt.
A lovely sunset on the peaks above escorted us back to where we started.
I would like to extend a huge thank you to Pat and Brian. This was a very large endeavor and probably two of the ten hardest lakes that I have left in the park.
Without them I would not have just checked off lakes number 120 and 121.
All the best to everyone reading and to all a good night.
Ho Ho Ho
To Life,
Marc
That last part was supposed to be pronounced like it just happened in a mystery movie and some important fact was just uncovered.
Try it again,
The International Lake of Mystery….Duh, duh, Duh…..
How’d it go?
One of the main things about humor that I have found out in my life is that it is not real great if you have to explain it. You certainly dropped the ball, if you are at that point.
Anyhoo….
In comes the saga of “Deer Lake” in Waterton National Park.
So, Saturday was a first for me. I had to access a lake and it was about a quarter mile into Alberta, but it was about two and a half miles from a road and was directly west of the customs station.
So, this meant that the path of least resistance was hiking the boundary swath.
What is that you ask?
If you knew it or not, there is delineation that visually and physically separates the U.S. from Canada. In some places it might just be markers like this one.
In the plains they may just mow a separation.
I swear!!!
Why, I’m not entirely sure…But there is.
So on this particular day the route to the lake was an animal path that runs willy nilly up the boundary swath. I was happy to see that there was even a path, but I suppose the animals think it’s pretty cool that we keep this big clearing for them in the middle of the forest.
My friend’s cousin, Curtis and I drove through Canadian Customs. Had a really nice conversation with the nice men at the port and headed down the hill.
The deal with this whole hike was that we had to stay in the swath. If we left it, it had to be to the north. We had entered into Canada, so we would be illegally entering into the country if we walked out of the swath to the south and back into the U.S.
All of this sound odd and a bit silly? I agree, but that is international law. I’m lucky that they extended this option to me to begin with.
After the river we found a nice mucky swamp and because of this tiny little rule, instead of walking around the swamp to the south, we had to walk straight on through. There was no end to it if you walked north…
Straight on through it was. The muck on the bottom of the swamp almost sucked my sandals off of my feet. I then lost my balance and basically fell face first into the swamp. I dunked my boots and half my stuff. I came out smelling awful. Note* This was not the swamp, it was the swamp after it that we could walk around. I have no pic of the awful boundary swamp. I am sorry.*
But we were in compliance with the law!!! I want to continue to make that very clear!
So, finally we headed back up the other ridge after the dreaded boundary swamp. It was really a pleasant walk. The animals cleared a great path the whole way until we had to deal with that “1/4 mile into Canada” part.
It is funny to be walking through a perfectly clear and very wide path with thick, impenetrable forest on both sides. Odd feeling, for sure.
So, we schwacked our way over, under and around the forest for a good while until we found a pretty pleasant lake. I was surprised because many of the small, forested lakes are really not too pleasant.
I spoke with a few guys who work for Waterton National Park and they said that they had both flown over it through the years. One said it was almost dried up at the end of a hot, fire filled season. The other said that he saw a moose swimming in it.
Now I have.
Lake #118
On our return we even found an amazing moose skull hidden in the willows.
Good evening, all
Yes that’s right, it’s night time again and I’m trying to make sure I get this thing updated. I have actually done much since I wrote last. So, here goes….
Back to the lake bids. My girlfriend and I went on a trek last week. In the Many Glacier valley there is Kennedy Lake. It’s quite remote. It is the head waters of Kennedy Creek which is really long. Poia Lake is fed by this water down the creek a ways.
Since its so long just heading straight up the valley would be a horrible bushwack. So, what you do is climb over Appikuni Mountain…..twice…
It’s not the most difficult mountain in the world to climb, but it’s still 3000 feet of elevation gain to the summit. There is an interesting cliffy section near the beginning.
For the most part though, it’s just a super long slope of scree and small cliffs.
These are the moments that make me ask you this question. Now, this is providing that all random actions and systems of the body are for a reason. What, is the purpose, I ask you? In these moments when your in a zen like cloud, putting one foot in front of the other. A thousand feet of loose scree above you, a thousand below. Why at those exact moments, does the theme to Three’s Company get stuck in your head? Anyone????
Sorry for that tanget…I just always get something odd stuck in my head, but I’m sure I’m not the only one….
Well, we got to the top of a saddle that is right below the actual peak, and there was Kennedy Lake. Big, blue and 1500 feet of scree and small cliffs below us. We dropped in on it which took a while. I love it, plenty of people have seen this lake from surrounding mountain peaks, but virtually nobody ever goes down to it. It’s an amazing lake, so much color. Great spot for a short lunch….. and a dip
Short is the word, because now comes the disheartening part. You can’t homestead there, so it’s time to just climb right back up to the same saddle that you were standing on a couple hours ago.
Beleive it or not, there is a person in the middle of that slope in the picture above…Where in the world is Waldo,huh?
Allow me to expand….
My friends Josh and Laura went a swimmin’ with me the other day. Laura who is daughter of one of my most devout readers Chris Kloeck, by the way. Hi, Chris…Thanks for the 70’s TV show insights…
We went to a far flung reach of the park. In the southeastern corner of the park there is a place called Firebrand Pass. People run around here for years before they ever go there. Not because it’s particularly hard, nor cause it’s not wonderful. I think it just gets overshadowed by some of the other, simply jaw dropping parts of the park. Which ends up making this a very peaceful and more wild portion of the park.
Quite nice, really…
So, near Firebrand Pass is Lena lake, and behind it is a saddle. It’s a nice red scree covered saddle between Redcrow Mountain and Bearhead Mountain.
This lake is dedicated to Mountain Goats and their wonderful ability to go where no one else goes and leave “a path”….So, about four miles in towards Firebrand pass, we embarked off trail towards Lena lake and the saddle. We had to fight through some thick sub-alpine firs to get there, like normal.
We ended up down at what was a wonderful beach that must be the home of thousands of butterflies. They were all over our packs and hiking poles. Pretty great!!
But in come those dreaded booby-junk leeches!!!!!… My girlfriend would say “dun,dun,dun!!!
Like you were listening to a mystery show on the radio in the 50’s and we just learned who the killer was. Very dramatic…
We were swimming in this lake and all was wonderful. Hot days ended in a moment with cold clear water.
As for the next day, I met up with another one of my other most avid readers, Dave. He is out here staying for a few weeks with his wife and hiking it up. He is a monster; the guy can hike over mountains in a single bound while filling you with gobs of wisdom and insight. So, I took him up on a very nice hike to one of the only areas in Many Glacier valley that was not closed for Grizzly bears. Poia Lake was our destination.
We stopped by Poia and Swiftcurrent Ridge lakes for a swim and he dropped knowledge about all the righteous things of the world. Great hike Dave. All in all, what a wonderful weekend.
I hope this finds every one well. I’m wishing you all the best and I certainly thank you for your time. I know these stories personally. So this stuff is for all of you. I would love to hear how every one is doing and what you’re all up to.
As for me, about 6’4” 240lbs…
Drum roll!!!!! Anybody? Hello….
Jeez, this is a tough crowd
Night!!!
To life,
Marc
It topped out at 94 the other day…That is just too hot for mountians. They are supposed to be cold, right?
To give you some understanding of how long this endeavor is going to take. This is the second 3 lake weekend since I started. They are just not that easily gain and especially not any longer. They are all labors.
On Tuesday, my girlfriend and I did an off trail route along a crazy cliff edge that wraps around a mountain and eventually pops us out at two lakes. They are called Snow Moon and Falling Leaf lakes. Amazing lakes too.. It’s been a long time coming for these two since it’s only about 1 ½ miles from the parking lot of Many Glacier Hotel, but not one step is on a maintained trail. Although through the years it has been done so many times, that there is a path. That path leads through the forest and pops out into a scree slope or a field of tiny rocks that is called the “Red Scree Strolls” in the climbing guide. We saw a first year baby grizzly bear dropping off the side of the slope. Where was momma? Dunno…We became a lot louder and kind of gave it a little time before we continued. Eventually you find this path and it follows along the top of a cliff that runs all the way around Mt. Allen.
The next day was the 4th of July and it was not a perfect day for anything but laying in water. I decided to surrender the park to the visitors and the heat. A couple dips in the St. Mary river and some fireworks and a grill out…No hiking..
But the next day. Oh, the next day. I decided that if I was serious about the lake idea, then it was time to chomp off a couple of the less enjoyable lakes that no one wants to do with me. So, I dubbed it “crappy lakes that no one wants to do with me” day. Catchy? Huh?
I woke up early and drove the Going to the Sun Road to the west side. The road just opened for the year because of large washouts in November. So, this was my first trip of the year. For those of you who do not know Glacier very well, the west side is lower elevation than the east side. This makes it warmer and covered in much heavier vegetation. This sometimes makes for long approaches to murky, marshy lakes. I ask a lot of my friends, but none of them want to jump in a marsh on a 90 degree day that they had to walk 20 miles round trip to get to. So, I do it my self. All for the love of this goofy project.
So, I digress. I woke up early and got to Johns Lake.
So, close your eyes and envision your friend Marc. Ok, got it?
So it was so hot as I was walking out, that I started dipping a camp towel and my hat in every steam I came to and plopping it on my head and neck. It kept me cooler and protected me from the sun. Compounding on top of that was the onslaught of classic west side mosquitoes. You feel like they are just in a cloud trying to chase you down. Honestly, at this point your closing in on just losing your mind Your only defense is to keep on walking.
So, as quickly as I could put on a mosquito shirt. For those that do not know what this is, it’s a shirt made of tight mesh so they can’t get to you. Well, I start hiking as fast as I can, bombing down hill with a mosquito shirt on, and a wet towel and floppy hat on my head and neck.
Trekking poles in hands, just trying to Zen out and get to the blasted road. I pop out into a parking lot with a poor unsuspecting couple standing there. I’m filthy, drenched with water/sweat with this ridiculous get up on. Blathering on about bugs and lakes and what not. I was a sight.
Who says the life of a lake bidder is glamorous. Well, I honestly think no one says that….
Actually, what in the world is a lake bidder anyway, most would say….You now know the answer to a very seldom asked question.
I will leave you with that vision. I can do no better. I’m pretty tired and must pack for my days off. I’ll keep you informed of my endeavors this weekend.
But you must stop back to see what they are…since, really I have no idea what they will be…Yeah, no plans..
To Life,
Marc
We figured that we could be visible through the scope that hangs out at viewing platform as long as we had something bright on our packs. So, we tied bright orange bandanas to our packs so my girlfriend/coworker could watch us climb the ridge. I’m sure that was pretty interesting to watch us plod along a few thousand feet above the lake level. Even with the scope we were just tiny orange specks.
Once we gained the saddle we had to drop about 800’ down the other side to get to the lake. I’ve certainly been through well worse bushwhacks, but the other side of the ridge was entirely forested, so it was straight through trees and brush for the entire way.
It’s funny, being in situations that most “normal” people would view as completely unacceptable…in a strange way I derive some twisted pleasure from it. No one is forcing us to do this; it’s completely voluntary to thrash through alder bushes well taller than me. It just seems like a very logical thing to do, all in the name of jumping into a 38 degree lake, then turn right back around and do it all backwards.
The lake was quite pleasant for early season. Things are starting to thaw out pretty good around here, so more of the off trail ideas are becoming possible. I draw the line at having to break ice on a lake to jump in. So, until now most of this has been impossible.
We climbed back through the tree covered ridge to the saddle. I snapped a few photos of the view directly back down at Waterton Lake 2000’ below. It’s so great to get such a wild view of how small Goat Haunt is.
We followed our path back down the ridge.
A great start to the lake bid season. I’m happy to have gotten one under my belt.
So, needless to say…everything is great on my side of things. I hope you are all well, finding your overlooks to be amazing in themselves. Get out there and search them out. Maybe wake up for a good sunrise. No matter where you’re at, it’s more amazing at 4:30am. Some of the most colorful sunsets I’ve ever seen have been in my hometown of Cincinnati and it’s below 1000’ elevation. So, I’ll wrap this up. Maybe go get some sleep. I wish you well. Till next I write, please email me or leave a comment. I would love to hear from you all.
To Life
Marc
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Hi my name is Marc Ankenbauer and I jump into freezing cold lakes for charity. I'd like to personally thank you very much for visiting my website, Glacier Explorer. My Story For the last 10+ years I've been attempting to be the first person ever to jump into all of the 168 named lakes in the … [Read More...]
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