Marc Ankenbauer's 10+ year quest to jump in every named lake in Glacier and Waterton National Parks for charity.
168 lakes. Only 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
ZERO LAKES LEFT!!!
-- Marc jumped into Fisher Cap Lake on Sunday September 8th, 2013 to complete his goal! --
Read about Marc and how this project started...

Archives for July 2013

Running Crane Lake : Grizzly Bears, Icebergs and Captain Clint #161

Remember in early July when it was like 5 million degrees in the Western United States?

Obviously an exaggeration, but it did break records in Las Vegas and Death Valley of 117 and 129 respectively.

This was also when Glacier’s already hot summer took it to the next level.

It was breaking 90 daily for a couple weeks.

That is very hot here.

RC27

 

I was still recuperating from the brutal Lilly Lake outing.

And with temperatures like this, I didn’t really want to hike much of anywhere.

But I had to choose something from the list.

They weren’t going to jump in themselves. ..Now were they?

 

running crane - Glacier Explorer

 

So, my friend Captain Clint and I decided that the best thing to do on a hot day was to go swimming.

Come to find out, Running Crane Lake was the cure for this summer time scorcher.

There would be very little bushwhacking and lots of lovely clear lakes.

But there would also be absolutely no shade on an outrageously hot and sunny day.

 

RC1

 

Captain Clint, is actually a Captain.

He heads the Two Medicine faction of the Glacier Boat Company.

Countless visitors have experienced the park through his brand of intimate knowledge and sharp, witty banter.

He is one of the biggest characters I’ve ever met and we were “goinona mission”.

It was gonna be a good day…

Two Medicine to Running Crane Lake and return in a day.

And lay our overheating bodies in as many pools of water as possible.

This was our task…

 

RC2

 

We left Two Med at 6:15am and B-lined it to the Dry Fork Junction which is on the way towards Old Man Lake.

We paused to rest by the creek for five minutes before continuing on.

 

RC30

 

As we walked up hill slightly, we looked down where we were just sitting and saw a bear cruise down valley.

He was literally in the exact same spot we had just been resting five minutes earlier.

I’ll call that great timing for everyone involved.

 

RC3

 

From here on it was all off trail as we headed toward the saddle between Spot and Red Mountains.

 

RC4

 

I had been up there once before when my good friend Josh Paulson and I went to Lonely Lakes in 2005.

Josh is a well more comfortable climber than I was or still am.

I knew at the time that I had to start working on the off trail lakes and Josh helped work me into that era of the project.
He also turned me into a trekking pole believer!

Eight years later I owe the project to trekking poles, gaiters and goat trails.

Thanks for all your help and insight.

 

RC5

Josh and I in 2005.  It was windy… Really Windy…

 

This is an extremely windswept and barren valley.

In winter, the winds must absolutly howl through here.

There was a tiny rivulet stream running through flower filled scree.

 

RC6

 

Our early start allowed us to have shade until almost the saddle.

That was huge!

 

RC31

 

At the top we paused to take it all in.

Many climbers have stared down at the Lake Creek Valley, but few ever roam around in it.

Clint and I both knew how special this area and today was.

We had a lot of distance to cover, but were excited about the opportunity.

Seeing as it was July 2nd  and we had the opportunity, we both made a snow ball to throw over the cliff before dropping in.

That kind of stuff still makes two boys from Ohio and Texas smile.

 

RC7

 

We dug our heels in and scree skied directly down towards the Lonely Lakes.

Halfway down we had to choose a gulley and luckily chose correctly.

Once down at the lake we looked back at our descent and found that we took the only “good” way.

We kind of funneled down to the ideal cliff exit, which was consistent with how our day progressed.

 

RC30

 

Since our real objective was Running Crane Lake, we resisted temptation to hang out at the Lonelys and pressed up the next ridge.

 

RC8

 

We rose above Lonely Lakes which were cradled by Red Mountain’s namesake hues.

 

RC(

 

Eventually Running Crane came into view tucked high into the upper valley.

Josh and I peered out at Running Crane in 05’ but short on time, we left it for another trip…

 

RC10

 

Eight years later Clint and I hardly broke stride past my previous stopping point.

Onward across a couple snow fields and down bright red scree filled slopes.

 

RC11

 

As the lake came into view we noticed icebergs floating near the beach.

We both looked at each other and knew that those bergs were our destination.

How often do you get to climb out on icebergs on a 90 degree day?

This was going to happen!

 

RC12

 

The snow beyond the lake had a melt spot that looked exactly like a soaring eagle.

Clint liked the Eagle…

 

RC13

 

Hot from our hike here, we jumped in immediately and dealt with lunch and photos later.

 

RC13

 

Sprawled out on the rocky shore, we ate our lunch and smiled widely.

Clint was telling an animated story and threw his hands in the air.

At that exact moment, we looked left and saw two sub adult grizzly bears running away from the lake.

I don’t think they saw us until Ol’ Captain Clint told a rousing story about lord knows what!

I’m guessing they had some swimming plans of their own and they weren’t expecting that two loud humans got to the pool first.

I certainly do appreciate them letting us continue.

Thanks guys.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rr-_wwegXT0&feature=em-upload_owner

 

Obviously, from that point on I kept one eye out for the bears and one on my icebergs.

They never returned, which is good… but what an amazing sighting.

With the time we had left we hopped up on the icebergs which had started to float around by now.

 

RC14

 

We had to jump off before the wind blew us down lake.

Ah, July 2nd in Glacier National Park.

 

RC15

 

Clint eyed a high point on the ridge off Red Mountain and we pushed for it.

The views were amazing!

 

RC16

 

The skyline to the west was the Cutbank Valley and a sea of layered peaks.

 

RC17

 

To the north was the Madwolf Circuit with Eagle Plume directly above Running Crane.

The South was Red Mountain and the ridge we had just come over.

And, to the East was the Great Plains stretching past Browning and the Sweetgrass Hills all the way to Chicago…

 

RC18

 

Red Mountain is obviously red but the Eastern part of the ridge is tan.

At one point, there is the transition and it looked like the red and tan rocks had a fight.

Fallen rock soldiers strewn about, making the transition very chaotic.

 

RC19

 

As we wondered down the ridge it had officially gotten HOT!

The sun beat on us making the idea of the Lonely Lakes extremely inviting.

We made really good time by starting early and knowing the route from last time I was back here.

 

RC20

 

Just beyond the red and tan rock battle, we found a nice ramp back down to the lakes.

Clint had beaten me to the upper Lonely Lake.

While I was still high above the lake, I watched him cannonball off a lakeside boulder.

 

RC21

 

Thus began a two hour, swim, snack, swim, drink, swim, kick it fest at the Lonely Lakes.

 

RC22

 

There is a flower filled rock shelf separating the upper and lower lakes.

Between them are two tiny ponds which we named the Upper and Lower – Middle Lonely Ponds.

It’s a catchy name.

I know.

They were comparatively quite warm, but only about two feet deep.

Clint skied down a snow bank into the Upper Middle Lonely pond in his Chacos.

 

RC23

 

The lower Lonely Lake was spectacular also.

We continued our lazy, swimming ways while tucked into a piece of shade made by the rock shelf.

We must have said, “This is amazing” 763 times throughout the day.

We just somehow earned the perfect high elevation, mountain lake swimming extravaganza!

And on a hot day.

 

RC24

 

Last time I was back here it was 50 degrees and the wind was blowing so hard that I had to put rocks on my clothes so they wouldn’t fly away.

The swimming conditions were much different.

I would like to thank Good Juju, Glacier Park and a hot weather pattern for this one.

 

RC25

 

Eventually we left our cooling salvation and headed up the rocky ridge towards Two Medicine.

We took a slight detour to check out a vegetation filled waterfall chute.

Today was a good day!

The scree was soft, the ridges sound, the views extensive and crisp, and the water cold and clear.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7fgotnEn_ec&feature=em-upload_owner

 

A couple miles from Two Medicine we bumped into what we believe was the same black bear from this morning.

He didn’t seem to have any time for us.

We stepped off trail behind some trees and he cruised past us bound for his next destination

Clint and I mused about how he was headed home on his work commute.

This morning he headed down valley to his 9 to 5 and tonight he was headed back up valley.

Headed back to the casa to have a bear beer and put his paws up.

I figured we should follow suit.

 

Thanks for a great time Clint.

We got a hold of a great lake trip and four bears in one day.

That is certainly a Waterton Glacier Lake Jumping Project single day bear record.

Most of them aren’t this good and it was even better with the great company.

 

RC28

 

Josh Paulson, thanks for showing me the way on this one.

You’re the man.

May you all be having a great summer and enjoying your bear beer and your commute.

To Life,

Marc Ankenbauer

 

 

 

#160 Lilly Lake : Who in the **** named this thing?

About six years ago I began to investigate the specifics of the lake project a bit deeper.

I knew there were 132 name lakes in Glacier National Park.

Most of them are very obviously labeled on the park topographical map.

At the time I had so much on my plate that it didn’t much matter what made up those 132.

I could throw a dart at the map and find a lake that needed a little swimming done.

 

 

Lilly bw

 

Then one day I wrote the park mapping expert to request the official USGS named lakes list.

As I scanned down the predictable and by then very familiar list, I came across the words “Lilly Lake”.

Where is that?

Has anyone heard of Lilly Lake?

No matter who I asked, no one had any knowledge of this remote puddle.

 

Lilly Pine Trees

 

 

There has long been a trail that leads along the western boundary of the park called the West Lakes Trail.

About 25 years ago the section leading through the Logging, Anaconda and Dutch Valleys was let go to be reclaimed by the vegitation.

That old trail also passed by a non-descript, mucky leech filled pool in the Anaconda Creek valley.

We are here today people, because some evil, mean spirited surveyor named it Lilly Lake.

 

lilly - Glacier Explorer

Lilly is the kidney bean shaped thing in the middle…

 

Fast forward to 2013 and that trail is nonexistent.

The park vegetation reclaims trails as if they were never there to start with.

Then toss in the fact that most of the route burnt in the major 2003 fire season.

 

Lilly expansive

 

For years now, people have literally laughed in my face when I pointed at this lake.

It’s a tiny dot on the map surrounded by a huge expanse of trail less west side forest.

No one and I mean no one actually WANTS to go there.

I ran through the list of companions and between different days off, logistics and a simple want for personal enjoyment…no one could or would go.

Thank you to everyone who at least tried to help.

 

But when the the chips are down…

In walks Mr. Pat Cattelino.

 

Lilly Pat

 

While he still didn’t really WANT to go.

He’s far enough into this whole project, that this had him intrigued.

I think he long ago figured that he would get stuck going anyway to make sure that I was able to finish.

And so I didn’t come up missing in the middle of the west side jungle by myself.

 

Lilly Pat

 

So, last week me and my buddy went on an EPIC.

Possibly THE EPIC of the whole damn ten year run.

Not including driving time, we spent 16 hours trailhead to trailhead.

12.5 hours completely off trail, constantly moving through dense forest following a GPS coordinate.

 

Lilly Car

 

We started driving from Whitefish at 6am and hit the Logging Lake trail at 8am.

About a month earlier I was on this seldom traveled trail when Clay and I had headed up to Grace Lake.

It’s starting to become familiar territory.

 

Lilly trail

 

By 9:30 we had ticked off the five miles to the foot of Logging Lake and we were seeking a nice place to cross the creek below the outlet.

 

Lillly Creek Crossing

 

We happened upon the spot where the old West Lakes Trail Bridge used to cross Logging creek.

We even found the old bridge supports still mostly intact.

I love finding parts of the parks history that have been left to fall apart in their remote peace.

 

Lilly Bridge

 

I wonder how many people crossed that bridge back in the day?

Now it leads to nowhere.

This might be the West Lakes Trail Bridge, but beyond that there is ABSOLUTLY NO SIGN OF THE OLD TRAIL!

NADA!

 

Lilly Sticks

 

Shortly after crossing the bridge, we spooked a moose, which in turn SPOOKED us!

 

Lilly Day Bed

 

After that all we saw was a mule deer and some bear poop.

Most animals just don’t want to be in brush this thick.

They are simply too smart for such foolish antics.

 

Lilly Poop

 

As we pulled ourselves up Adair Ridge, we couldn’t see anything but forest.

The comedian Brian Regan has a skit in which he calls woods plural, the Woodesen…

This was the Woodesen alright, or so Pat and I said while laughing manically at the time.

 

Lilly Woodsen

 

At the top of the ridge we found the post burn regrowth which came in form of five billion baby pine trees all less than 12 inches apart….

We were moving curtains of baby pine trees for hours.

 

Lilly Pine Trees

 

After 4.5 hours off trail we finally got a view down into the Anaconda creek valley but still the lake was nowhere in sight.

There was an obscene amount of land to still cross.

At 2pm we surveyed our future and it looked pretty bleak.

We were still 3.5 miles from the lake or so the GPS said.

 

Lilly far stare

 

By now it was also getting HOT!

The brush was so nasty that there’s no way to not have long pants, long shirt and gaiters on.

Without this wardrobe we wouldn’t have legs left, we would have bloody stumps.

For us bald guys, toss in the sweat creator itself, the floppy hat.

I’m was just getting crushed.

Somehow every time I’m thrashing through a old burn which gives no shade, it’s 90 degrees and sunny.

What’s up with that?

 

 

Lilly red neck

 

We used a map, compass and GPS to figure out an approximately line.

Without these three tools we would be hopeless.

 

Lilly GPS

 

As we B lined it into the Anaconda Creek valley we passed an enormous old Beaver Pond.

This scum pond was the only water, so we declined in hopes of arriving to Lilly soon.

We were both almost out of water but you can’t go drinking out of a beaver pond…

 

Lilly Beaver Pond

 

So, hot, dehydrated and hours in I started to get cramps in my hamstrings.

I was pouring powdered Gatorade in my mouth and swigging it down with what water I had left.

Cramping in the middle of nowhere is not alright.

I’m pretty sure I ingested 83 servings of Gatorade that day.

It was ridiculous.

 

Out of water and hobbled we came over a rise to see a very non-descript pond.

So much work for a puddle!

We left trail at 9:30am and got to the lake at 5pm.

Seriously?

 

Lilly Far Pat

 

We went into our hyper-efficient lake dip, water pulling, Gatorade pounding, food devouring mode which took 30 minutes.

 

Lilly Lillies

 

I’m glad I didn’t actually see the leeches until after I had slid my body in using a gooey old tree to keep myself from touching too much of the decaying lake bottom.

All that work for a 30 second photo op and some stinky swimming trunks.

 

Lilly Dip

 

So, wrinkle after wrinkle, baby pine after baby pine was plodded out way in reverse.

Clouds gathered in the Northwest but didn’t manifest into anything much.

A thunderstorm actually cooled us off a bit, but was short lived.

 

Lilly Leaving

 

I’m just thankful that we did it when we did, because the next day started the 4 day monsoon that flooded out Calgary.

We got to the saddle of Adair ridge at about 8:45pm or so… and dropped downhill towards Logging lake.

Best possible option was just to hit trail before dark, which we just did.

Thanks to the GPS we were able to cross the creek at approximately the same spot with the old bridge supports.

 

Lilly Late Creek

 

Dusk was turning to plain dark when we finally popped out on to trail at 10pm..

We were daffy but ecstatic.

 

The large moon helped us for a little bit but mostly we hoofed the five miles back in the pitch black.

We hit the trailhead and my car at 11:45pm.

Almost 16 hours in all…

 

Lilly Late Car

My car! At Midnight…

 

The drive out to civilization took forever!

It was 2 hours later when we finally stopped for food at the Super One in Columbia Falls.

My eye had been kind of bothering me for hours now.

So, I looked in the mirror and found dirt and an old brown tree needle in my eye.

I was able to pick it out and all is better, but WOW!

What a Bushwhack!

 

Honestly I’m just really glad to have this lake done.

I wholly recommend NEVER going anywhere near this place.

I certainly will never go back.

It wasn’t the prettiest, the most dramatic, the most animal filled or even much fun…

Despite all of that, I still feel extremely lucky to be able to live and test myself in a place so profound.

 

Lilly Laugh

 

Plus, it’s one more off the list!

Eight Left!

Thank You Pat!

To Life!

Marc Ankenbauer