Marc Ankenbauer's 10+ year quest to jump in every named lake in Glacier and Waterton National Parks for charity.
168 lakes. Only 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
ZERO LAKES LEFT!!!
-- Marc jumped into Fisher Cap Lake on Sunday September 8th, 2013 to complete his goal! --
Read about Marc and how this project started...

Carthew Pond : The Last Canadian Lake #162

One of the greatest aspects to the seasonal world of Glacier National Park is the people you call your peers.

It’s not about who you were in the past or even who you are in winter.

Right now, maybe just for this summer… you are the lucky few.

Right now you are here, no matter what demographic life would normally put you in.

No matter your age, gender, color, sexual preference, nationality, hometown or future path, when you’re here…

None of that matters.

 

What matters is that you bled your time in this park for all its was worth.

It matters that you got out and explored the park in your own particular way this past weekend.

It matters that you were overwhelmed by the power of this place and your moments in it.

Carthew 1

 

 

Some of my best friends in Glacier were not born in my same generation much less the same decade.

I often find myself sitting around a fire or planning hikes with people 15 years younger and 30 years older than me.

I feel lucky to call some of the parks greatest personalities, my friends.

 

With that said, I have two wonderful guys named Ed Bouffard and Dave Birkhead as hiking partners.

Their lovely wives Diane and Kathy are even more amazing than them… but this story is about Ed and Dave.

 

Carthew 2

 

Heading into this season, I was pondering the ideal hiking partners for the last 10 lakes.

Virtually everything I had was a brutal, multiday, off trail outing.

But, there was one last amazing day hike to be had and my ideal partners were these two guys.

They have been good friends to me and unendingly supportive of the lake project.

I’ve gone on countless outings with these two and I always have a terrific time.

Both of them more than hold their own, they’re impressive hikers.

 

Carthew 3

 

So, when Ed called me to ask what I was doing on a random Monday in mid-July, I knew exactly what was on the agenda.

Luckily it was Dave’s day off also and we were going to knock off Carthew Pond.

This shallow pond below the Carthew Lakes in Waterton National Park also represented THE LAST LAKE IN CANADA.

There are 38 in Canada, and this was number 38.

 

Carthew 26

Carthew Pond that is…

 

In 2004 I hiked through this area along the famous Carthew-Alderson trail.

I knocked off six lakes that day, but not this one.

Carthew Pond wasn’t even on my radar as I hadn’t looked at the official Waterton Lake list yet.

I was simply knocking off the obvious lakes anywhere I found myself on a pretty day.

It’s been almost ten years since I passed by this tiny, somewhat overshadowed pond.

 

Carthew 4

 

Unfortunately, the June floods that wreaked havoc in Calgary also took out the Akamina road which accesses Cameron Lake trailhead.

The hike normally runs from Cameron Lake over Carthew Peak and down to Waterton Townsite.

 

Carthew 28

Carthew Alderson Route Map

 

Instead, now it’s a seven mile, 3000’ push one way from town to the pond and then back down again.

Not exactly the ideal route, but it was time to go swimming and that’s what we were going to do.

 

Carthew 5

 

The day hedged on perfect as I drove north rocking out to the new Macklemore CD.

I pulled up next to Dave’s apartment with music blaring, windows rolled down and my car looking like I live in there.

Dave hopped in and we continued towards Babb to meet Ed, and grabbed a hitch hiker along highway 89.

He told us that he was starting the Continental Divide Trail.

He was hitching north to the Canadian border so he could start heading South towards Mexico.

 

Interesting story; I was the 3rd person to pick him up already this morning and the first person was one of my coworkers.

Ah, the small world that is the east side of Glacier NP.

We wished him safe travels as he headed in for a last meal at the diner in Babb.

We quickly switched into Ed’s car and headed for the border.

 

Carthew 19

Chief Mountain Customs with Cartoon Filter

 

It always goes better if a nice car driven by a distinguished gentleman pulls up, instead of a bald, crackpot with a dirty dorm room for a vehicle.

Everything went seamlessly and an hour later we were putting together backpacks and tightening trekking poles in the Cameron Falls parking lot.

 

Carthew 6

Cameron Falls, Wateton National Park

 

The shady, forested trail meandered uphill and felt like it would never end.

 

Carthew 7

 

An hour or so later we found ourselves popping out of the trees finally.

The massive headwall of Mt. Alderson dominated the scene.

 

Carthew 8

 

Alderson Lake’s deep blue contrasted against the meadows of vibrant bear grass.

 

Carthew 9

 

I have a different experience hiking with these fella’s than I do others.

We talk about life, philosophy, politics and just the prospective differences that 30 more years can provide.

I can’t tell you how much I appreciate the time that I get to bounce my life off of these two wise, pleasant men.

 

Carthew 10

 

When Carthew Pond came into view we struck off through marsh ponds and stunted sub alpine trees.

The mosquitoes were enjoying the area as much as we were.

Thanks to our bug friends, like so often, we sped through the actual lake dip portion of the day.

 

Carthew 11

 

It’s funny; this whole thing is not about jumping in lakes.

It’s about the journey and experiences along the way.

The last decade for me was about the friends, the miles, the bushwhacks and the epic experiences in such a profoundly wild place.

Not, swimming.

That is just a medium.

 

Carthew 27

 

Ed waded into the lake with me to get some video as Dave photographed from shore.

Tiny little stunted fish swam around my torso as I floated in three feet of tepid water.

 

Carthew 12

 

 

I waded out to dry off as Ed took his own refreshing dip.

We were surrounded by amazing alpine scenery at this point and were not in any hurry to drop back into the woods or end the day.

The trail continued uphill along the two Carthew Lakes.

 

Carthew 13

 

It would be foolish to not investigate.

Heck, for me it had been ten years, I was going to hang out for a bit.

A flower choked waterfall area drained the Upper Carthew Lake which provided a stellar stopping point.

Water was filtered, sandwiches were eaten, jokes were told, and scenery was soaked in.

 

Carthew 14

 

We stared down valley from a rocky outcropping.

Carthew Lake dwarfed Carthew Pond as the valley opened up like a mouth into the Eastern Alberta Plains.

 

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

 

As we descended the trail we dropped through a snowfield which passed a strange little cavernous hole.

A baby marmot popped out to investigate the racket outside his tiny snowy home.

We only stayed a moment, so the marmots could have their peace and quiet.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJIwMprzy-I

 

We headed back into the forest and downward towards town.

Waterton townsite is a colorful bugger from above, nestled in between the Waterton Lakes.

 

Carthew 16

 

We got a great view south beyond the border and back into the U.S.

Glacier National Park’s largest peak, Mt. Cleveland dominates the landscape above Waterton Lake.

 

Carthew 18

 

Tired, stinky but in good company we packed back in for our trip south across the border.

Thanks, Canada, for all of your lovely lakes, friendly folks and Toonie Coins.

But I’m heading back home for dinner, a cold beer and more good company.

 

Carthew 20

 

Great Day!

Thank, Ed and Dave.

For being so cool, loving this place and always being my friends.

To Life,

Marc Ankenbauer

The Lake Plan – How I’m going to accomplish being the first person to jump in every named lake in Waterton and Glacier National Parks

Beargrass sunrise - Glacier Explorer
Anything as elaborate as the “Waterton Glacier Lake Jumping Project” has to eventually have logic, logistics and “A Plan”.

Those of you that have spent lots of time in Glacier may be interested in those logistics.  You have looked at some of these lakes from peaks high above and pondered which way I had to go to get there.  Heck, I have relied on your recon to keep me safe and pointed in the right direction through the years.

But, so many of you have more or less no idea where I’m talking about, it’s just a wild, pretty place.  I can imagine it’s tough to really gather how much logistics and how many minute details go into something like this.  Unless you have spent an exceptional amount of time in Glacier National Park, it’s nearly impossible to understand that this is not just a passing, chaotic aquatic weekend endeavor.

So, I figured I would take this week to explain some of my logic.  My plan if you will.

As I write this, I have 12 lakes left out of 168.  132 are in Glacier and 38 are in Waterton National Park, Canada.  Two of them are in both countries, so added together; the number is 168 instead of 170.

Through the earlier portions of the project, I would simply go anywhere that was still on the list.  Since the list at that time was seemingly insurmountable, it was easy to simply go wherever my friends were going.  They all had to be checked off and it was an open slate.

As the years have passed I have sat up late nights, alone and with friends just planning.  Asking some of Glaciers most well experienced explorers their opinions, pouring over maps, photos and climbers guides over beers around a fire.    Planning routes, planning logistics, planning who would be good candidates to accompany me.

Some lakes, you just needed a willing participant.  Others I needed a more skilled climber (which doesn’t take much) to help me through the scary parts.  Sometimes I just needed an open afternoon and the willingness to drive there.

 

brian, pat, marc pic - - Glacier Explorer

NOTE:  I have always tried to make it known, but again…Thank you to everyone who has helped me get this far.  This project would have never, ever, ever happened without my friends who kept me safe and sane.

Some trips were five lakes in a day, and others were one lake in four very dirty, tiring, crazy days.

There is an immense amount of planning.

The twelve I have left are as follows.

Gem, Bench, Miche Waben, Camas, Evangeline, Ruger, Grace, Lilly, Running Crane, Medicine Owl, Carthew Pond and Fisher Cap.

Twelve arbitrary and very different places in a multinational , million acre+ expanse of mountains, stream crossings, alder bushes, cliffs, devils club, waterfalls, marshes, glacier basins, downed trees and thimble berries, gravel roads, river fords, PBJ’s, blisters, odd suntans and LAKES.  Can’t forget them.

I will not be able to finish this year.  I had high hopes, but life is what it is.  I have other things going on other than jumping in lakes and so do my friends.  So, between weather, weekends, snow melt and accompaniment and LIFE…It’s just not going to happen this year.

So, as of right now, here is the plan as well as it can be explained.

I do not want to finish at the absolute end of the season next year.

GEM and BENCH are two lakes that have to be done this year because they have to be done late season.

GEM LAKE

gem - Glacier Explorer

It is a tiny pond at the top of Comeau Pass which is in the middle of an expansive off trail route called Floral Park.  The route goes from Logan Pass to Lake McDonald through a high elevation shelf that drains Sperry Glacier.  The route simply does not melt out till late in the season and that is not going to get rid of all snow, just the sketchiest parts.  People have died on this route, mostly based on not understanding the enormity of the challenge in front of them, bad weather and sparse route finding skills.  This must be done late season and with that, I plan on completing it this year.  I did this route five years ago and was not aware that this was a named lake.  It’s just a pond on top of a pass.  Who would have guessed.  I am looking forward to it though, it’s an amazing place. I want to make sure it is known that this is not an advertisement for Floral Park.  It is a huge endeavor that many have taken lightly and been sorely mistaken.  If you do ever try it, Please do your homework, go with a group and know how to use a map.  PLEASE!!  (1 Enormous Day hike, at least 12 hours)

BENCH LAKE

bench - Glacier Explorer

Everything is approachable from more than one way, but there is always the “best way”.  This lake should be accessed by going to Canada and boating back into the US into a roadless area called Goat Haunt.  This is already the middle of nowhere to most people, but from there you must hike about seven miles of trail, then leave trail and cross the Waterton River which would be very big early season.  Goat Haunt is known for its wet, dark forest that has in my humble opinion the heaviest ground cover in the whole park.  You will find yourself climbing thousands of feet up the side of 45 degree angle slopes of 12 foot high alder filled with devils club and every other nasty plant we have.  It is plunked right in the middle of the molar tooth that is Kootenai Peak.  For this and every other reason, I just want this to be dry and clean as possible.  This too must be done this summer. (Two night’s backcountry, one huge day in the middle to get the lake)

*From there it would be nice to get a couple more done just to help make next year not as hectic.

CAMAS, EVANGELINE, RUGER LAKES

camas - Glacier Explorer

North of Lake McDonald is the Camas Creek drainage and some of the heaviest Griz country in the park.  There are seven fords of Camas creek that you have to do to get to Camas Creek Campground much less beyond it to the upper two lakes.  It needs to be late enough to have some of those steams dry.  If this doesn’t happen this year, then it will have to be later next year.  Note that July is buggy and this being super wet would make it probably pretty rough.  So, it would be an August thing.  August vegetation is at its peak and this area will be thick.  (Two nights at Camas CG and one off trail day to get the upper lakes)

MICHE WABEN

miche - Glacier Explorer

There once was a trail to the lake but that is long gone and overgrown.  In the furthest reaches of the northeast corner of the park is the Belly River.  Miche Waben Lake is the headwaters of virtually never visited North Fork of the Belly River.  It is a pretty low lying forested valley, but very, very tight.  So, again having this dried out would be important.  There is a waterfall that you have to climb around and I would not want that to be too full.  Plus again, July is skeeter season.  You have to ford the Belly River so you couldn’t do it too early anyway.  Three miles in on the Belly River trail is a faint old trail that is cleared periodically.  It would lead you to the North Fork and from there is a full on schwack for a few miles to the lake.  I know a few people to have been there, but not many.  Good Times.   (Two night’s camp, one day big lake push)

*I would be super happy to get either of these last two done this year, but it’s tough.  Weather has to hold and need someone to go with me.  I don’t do this stuff alone and people do have lives.  If not, then August of next year.

GRACE LAKE

grace - Glacier Explorer

Fourteen mile flat as a board backpacking trip in a remote portion of the northwest corner of the park.  The road to the trailhead is often washed out early season.  It is low elevation, so it would be a great early season or late season trip.  Once you are up there, I have always heard its an amazingly wild, beautiful area.  I want to spend a day exploring the area or I would have pondered a great big 28 mile day hike.  Three day weekends are tough to come by and it is imperative to dedicate them to the off trail hikes that you need a base camp for.  So, that is why I view it as super early or super late season.  When the snow is still in the high country or the snow has started to fly again, this would be a perfect trip.  This is the last on-trail trip I have left in the states.  (Three days, two nights)

LILLY Lake

lilly - Glacier Explorer

I didn’t even know this was a named lake for a long time.  It is not named on the map and you would never even think of it as being a destination.  But, in years gone by there used to be about 300 miles of trails that have been let to grow over in the last few decades.  This lake used to be accessed by one of those trails.  North of Dutch Creek and south of Logging Creek is Adair Ridge.  Tucked into the forested folds of that ridge is a bean shaped lake that I am not looking forward to going to.  It is going to have to be late enough that the snow is gone.  Then the water is running and with all the little folds of forested ridges it will probably be pretty rough going.  I will need a GPS coordinate to even find it because it’s not obvious like the lakes tucked at the base of a mountainous cirque.  The tough thing about this kind of lake is that July will be wicked buggy and by August I would imagine it’s pretty nasty.  The water will have started to evaporate enough that it’s more of a mucky impoundment of water.  I would love to be wrong, but I don’t think I am.  So, I’m hoping to hit this next year around early June.  (Either one huge day or base camp at Logging Lake Ft Campground and spend a day getting to the lake and back to camp)

MEDICINE OWL LAKE

med owl - Glacier Explorer

This thing is tucked in the upper portions of the Red Eagle Valley surrounded by mountains.  My best guess is a saddle in the upper valley that you can climb up and over.   It melts out early enough that I’m hoping to hit this in July but I could be wrong and you never know what the winter snow pack is going to be like.  The valley it is in burnt in 2003, but the ground vegetation has rebounded with a passion.  So, I think that saddle is my best bet.  (Three nights with one day in the middle for the lake)

RUNNING CRANE LAKE

running crane - Glacier Explorer

This thing is tucked in the most remote, inaccessible little pocket on the eastern front.  Between Two Medicine and Cutback is the Lake Creek drainage that flows out into the plains.  The far upper reaches of this valley is Lonely Lakes and Running Crane.  I once saw Running Crane when I did Lonely Lakes, but we did not have enough daylight to get to them.  I am planning to climb Mad Wolf Mountain and walk the ridge toward Eagle Plume Peak, then drop off that ridge.  From there maybe return the same way or try and push out to Two Medicine through a variety of random options.  Either way, I need lots of day light.  Early season you have too much snow, but its light till 10pm.  Late season its clear and melted out but you have started to lose hours of daylight.  So, I think this is a late July or early August thing as long as there is not huge amounts of snow still.  Should be an exciting one.  (One very huge day hike)

CARTHEW POND

carthew - Glacier Explorer

I’m guessing this is an impoundment of water below the lower Carthew Lake in Waterton National Park.  Along the popular Carthew-Alderson day hike in Waterton National Park there are two Carthew Lakes…I must have missed this thing.  When I did this hike, I had not gotten the list of lakes from Canada yet and just did the obvious ones on the map.  I am saving this for any one of a select group of friends who love a good day hike but won’t be able to make it on one of these other more extensive trips.  It is the last lake I have in Waterton National Park.

FISHERCAP LAKE

fishercap - Glacier Explorer

This is an idyllic little shallow pond just five minutes up trail from the Swiftcurrent Motor Inn Parking Lot in Many Glacier Valley.  Its border line silly, but this is going to be my last lake.  I am glad that I had the foresight to save an easy one.  I would have probably saved St. Mary or something a bit more logical, but Fishercap is beautiful and easily accessible.  That was what I had left to pick from when it dawned on me that I want my loved ones to be with me when I finish this.  I did not want to be in the absolute middle of nowhere, with one person when this finished itself up.  So, as funny as it seems.  Sometime in mid-August of next year, if all good things come together…I will plop into Fishercap Lake.  I’ll be surrounded by majesty, my loved ones and possibly a moose, five minutes from a parking lot.

That’s the story.  Thanks for listening.  Hope this stuff makes a bit more sense now.

I try to respond to all comments, so feel free to share what’s on your mind about my project. And please use the share buttons. Tell a friend!

All the Best!
To Life,
Marc

p824001 - Glacier Explorer